So, You Need Sneakers
Sneakers are notoriously unsustainable, but there are ways to get the right pair without harming the environment
When he started selling his first running sneakers designed by Bill Bowerman, Phil Knight didn’t consider how his rubber soles might affect the environment. Before that, he spent a few years traveling and surfing around the world, visiting some of the most beautiful corners of the Earth in Asia and Hawaii - he certainly knew what was at stake. And yet, the desire to scale his business was much bigger than the one to preserve his favorite surfing spots. Nike is the biggest sports shoe manufacturer, with revenue exceeding 46 billion dollars in 2022. It’s also one of the world’s biggest polluters. Their goal is to reduce their greenhouse-gas emissions by 90% by 2050. However, according to Fashion Supply Chain Emissions Report, the company produced almost 10 million tons of CO2 in 2022 (same as Inditex, and the most out of 10 brands included in the study), which is way too much to reach their goal and keep global warming below 1.5ºC.
Sneakers, in particular, are a huge environmental issue. The leather used to make them is rarely sustainable. Apart from killing the animal, the process requires large amounts of water and chemicals to make the leather soft and of the desired color. Faux leather usually consists of polyurethane which is essentially plastic. Cotton is a whole different problem. During cultivation, it requires enormous amounts of water and pesticides and an even grander portion of water and harmful chemicals when processed into fabrics. And I haven’t even mentioned the extensive list of the sole components, primarily plastic, all made in various parts of the world. Because of that, sneakers are impossible to recycle. And I guess it’s self-explanatory that they’re not biodegradable or compostable.
However, spring is almost here, and you need sneakers. I get it. I’m not against that, but to divert you from looking at those by Nike, I want to give you a few ideas on where to look for sneakers that truthfully are sustainable. I’m personally loyal to two brands. The first one is a french brand Veja. The two things I like most about the brand are the transparency and the design. Every detail about their supply chain is available on their website. They use organic cotton, chrome-free leather, recycled packaging, and natural rubber and limit the usage of water and chemicals in the process. They have a B Corp certificate, and the leather tanneries they use are gold certified by the Leather Working Group. They also ensure a living wage for workers in the entire supply chain.
Veja’s design is fantastic, but they still don’t know the answer to the critical question - where do the sneakers go once at the end of their life span? They still use conventional fabric dyes, eyelets made of metal they didn’t source themselves, petroleum-based synthetic suede, and the natural materials they use still can’t guarantee durability. Consequentially, Veja sneakers aren’t biodegradable, compostable, or easy to recycle. To tackle this, they offer a repair and recycling service for now.
The second brand I like and wear is Miret. It’s a Croatian brand with almost compostable sneakers. They use wool and plant-based materials like hemp, cork, and natural rubber. 97% of the materials they use are natural. The remaining 3% are synthetic thread and glue to make their sneakers more durable. They don’t have a repair or recycling service, but they encourage consumers to keep wearing their shoes as long as possible. Besides, they cover each pair of sneakers with a completely natural water-repellent coating, so it’s rather easy to keep them clean.
The other brands you could try are Flamingos, a Spanish brand that uses corn- and bamboo-based leather, and 1People, a Danish brand that uses grape-skin-based leather. I haven’t tried them, though. Have you? Do you know any other responsible sneaker brands? Let me know in the comments.
Vivobarefoot is great, and also has a separate page called Revivo, where you can buy refurbished sneakers, or send them your old shoes so the don't end up in a lanfill! Also, barefoot shoes are great for your feet 🐾
I use Atala sport, their sustainability is connected to highest quality manufacturing standards; they basically last incredibly long if properly maintained. Also the factory runs entirely on renewable Solar energy and they’re 100% made in Italy since 1952.